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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
It might not be as busy as some of its Brixton Village counterparts, but Okan features some of the most unusual cuisine in the covered markets. Its focus on Japanese street food divides the menu into yaki soba noodle dishes and okonomiyaki – savoury pancakes with a flour, egg and shredded cabbage base.
The latter are the highlight, topped with sesame-laced Japanese mayo (a thick, tangy, balsamic glaze-like sauce), dried seaweed and bonito fish flakes, which curl up into nothingness as you eat due to the heat from the pancake. It’s a flavour combination that won’t be to everyone’s taste, but there’s no denying the sweetness of the plump prawns that an Okan special was packed with – although the strips of processed-tasting squid were less impressive.
Despite a smattering of framed Japanese prints, little wooden toys, and red and white paper lanterns, there’s a very basic feel to the decor of wooden stools, scored tables and concrete floor in this tiny ex-industrial unit. The kitchen consists of a hotplate and sink behind a counter; you can’t book; and they’ve only just obtained a licence to sell a small range of lager and saké. Nonetheless, there’s a charm to the pared-back aesthetic.
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