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Glazed windows and voile curtains shut out the incessant noise and traffic of Knightsbridge, making this modern, comfortable dining room (with well-spaced tables) a serene place to enjoy some of the best seafood cuisine in town. The repertoire is modern with a French accent, although chef Pascal Proyart is not afraid to incorporate Asian and Mediterranean touches.
While the carte is pricey, the petit plats menu at lunch is good value (with prices from £17 for two plates, up to £40 for six) and puts sustainable fishing centre stage. A deftly roasted hand-dived scallop was paired with flaky shallot confit tart and lifted by a red wine matelote that left us hankering for more. Pan-fried farmed turbot tasted fresh and light in a parsley cassoulet, accompanied by king crab dumpling and finished with a few flakes of white truffle and rich bisque. Ethical arguments aside, there was nothing fishy about a smooth parfait of foie gras, its richness perfectly offset by a tart cranberry compote.
For dessert, we enjoyed coconut malibu soufflé. Service is provided by a team that has worked here for several years and understands how to look after its customers. The international wine list is expansive and predictably expensive; however, by-the-glass options start at £7 and include saké.