Environs: a handsome, pub-style room with blue leather banquettes and picture windows let down by scuffed tables and poor acoustics.
Menu: British-inflected, aspirational pub food that might read better than it tastes (spelt spaghetti with clams, chilli, garlic and wild fennel, for instance), despite the presence of some high-quality ingredients born from an ethical sourcing policy.
Drinks: a couple of real ales on tap (Bombardier, Young’s) and a well-constructed wine list, with some intriguing bottles at the lower end. But the service is less than perfect.
On a recent visit, the only running footman was a pleasant young waitress; the rest of the staff were hanging out behind the bar and displaying no interest in their customers.