Osteria dell'Angolo

You have to navigate a complex of modern offices to get to Osteria dell’Angolo, yet once inside the dining room, with its terracotta-coloured walls and large windows, it’s as though you’re in a Tuscan dwelling. The warm glow of the room at dinnertime is matched by the welcome of the staff. Tables opposite the semi-open kitchen afford an enjoyable view of chefs hard at work. A generous basket featuring six varieties of bread plus potato croquettes and fried polenta cake quickly puts diners in a good mood. These days, the cooking leans towards the sunnier climes of southern Italy. Black-ink tagliolini (which could have been more al dente) came with fresh crabmeat, grilled courgettes and cherry tomatoes. Far better was roast fillet of wild sea bass, its skin beautifully crisp, served with palourde clams and spinach in a light clam broth. In keeping with its location near the Palace of Westminster, wines are taken seriously and there are several worthy bottles in the £30-£40 range. White chocolate panna cotta with raspberry coulis paired with a glass of Torcolato Maculan 2008 was a match made in heaven, an excellent end to a generally pleasing visit.