Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Mon Jun 25 2012
There’s a decidedly old-school feel to this friendly neighbourhood Italian, with its colourful canvases and 1990s-throwback soundtrack. But lurking below the surface of what looks like an ordinary trat (albeit one with a posh postcode) is a very able kitchen, aided by great service. Chef Pierluigi Sandonnini hails from Piedmont, but he cooks like a Calabrian – and that’s a compliment.
Cicchetti (sharing plates) of crisply fried courgette, polpettine (little meatballs) served with a good tomato sauce, and octopus with ’nduja (the soft-textured, chilli-spiked Calabrian sausage) were spot-on: rustic yet refined. Pasta, made on the premises, is pleasing too. A proper carbonara with guanciale (pork jowl), firm tagliolini noodles and egg, unbesmirched by the sacrilege of cream, was just as you’d find it in Italy. Veal milanese and sea bass or salmon are regular mains on the seasonally changing menu.
Desserts range from classics, such as tiramisu, to inventive dishes like panna cotta flavoured with sambuca liqueur, served with rhubarb and rosemary jam. The all-Italian wine list has excellent producers from Alto Adige to Sicily, with a few ‘natural’ wines and a decent by-the-glass selection. A justifiably popular spot.
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