Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Tue Dec 15 2009
It would be easy to overlook this southern Italian gem – a pretty front-parlour dining room with domestic-looking kitchen at the back – on unlovely Kentish Town Road. Sometimes nothing tastes better thfan a combination of flavours as basic as salt, oil and rosemary, and here crisp Sardinian pane carasau anointed with this trinity, formed the base for an exceptional antipasto sardo, a selection of meaty, fishy and veggie goodies – highly recommended. Caponata, the characteristically Sicilian sweet and sour celery and aubergine salad, made a perfect a foil for the grassiest, milkiest mozzarella. Squeezing out between the tightly packed tables is even more difficult after pastas, which raise peasant food to the most pleasurable heights. Gnocchi dough stuffed with ragu, in a mushroom and sage sauce, was glorious stodge; linguine with parsley and bottarga (dried mullet roe) a simple success. Specials such as roast rabbit or pollack with spinach would suit an evening dedicated to the full works, but this charming trattoria is versatile enough for a family outing for the vast, thin, aromatic pizzas or a credit-crunch lunch. Great home-style cooking seems guaranteed. Smiley, swift service is unfortunately not.
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