This grand old spot was once a repository for works of art, stored in a high-ceilinged space behind Doric columns. Faithfully restored, it’s now flooded with natural light and lined with oak tables and leather chairs – a place for art dealers in smart, stripy shirts to entertain and network over braised pork belly or saddle of Devon lamb.
There’s also an upstairs dining room with a slightly more contemporary feel. The ground-floor area is bookended by a bar, where Adnams is the standout beer.
A 15-strong cocktail list includes a Moscow Mule with Belvedere vodka, while the wine list covers most bases, beginning with a Hungarian pinot grigio and a Languedoc merlot.