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Did Exmouth Market need a new pizzeria? It’s already one of the most restaurant-heavy little streets in town, with Santoré and Pizza Pilgrims already dishing up decent pies. But Panzo does have a USP: its special dough. It’s made with rice and soy flours as well as wheat. The theory is that it makes the bases lighter, crispier and easier to digest, with less gluten and fewer calories. They’re so into it, you won’t find the word ‘pizza’ anywhere on the menu. Apart from that, Panzo is essentially a cute neighbourhood pizzeria: a comfy yellow box of a dining room with laminated menus and wine on tap. The ‘panzos’ themselves are plate-covering ovals topped with the usual Italian suspects: aubergines, pumpkin, truffle, ’nduja, provola and so on.
And that special dough? It’s easy on the stomach alright, but light on flavour, too. It didn’t wow me like it might have done in the pre-sourdough era. But the friendly atmosphere and lowish prices are points in Panzo’s favour. It may not stand out on Exmouth Market, but if it opened on my street I’d be there every week.