Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
Completed in the year England won the World Cup, Centre Point is now home to the kind of restaurant where you might hope to spot premiership footballers. The 360-degree viewing gallery and cocktail bar on the 33rd floor is dramatic, and the restaurant (plus additional bar space) one floor below buzzes with chatter and a sense of occasion.
Cooking is ambitious, with a lot of combinations per plate; seared scallop with crab tortellini, curry oil, green apple salad, carrot and coriander purée is a typical starter. Beef carpaccio with horseradish panna cotta, pickled vegetables, capers and bone marrow was a good stab at a theme, with sweet miniature pickled carrots and a zesty horseradish; it was pleasant, but the carpaccio was a little bland. A main course hake fillet was also slightly drab, but enlivened by the tang of chorizo, while a trio of pork (cheek, pie and belly) had some good elements, especially the pastry on the mini pork pie, but the belly pork lacked verve and again, was a trifle dull.
Overall, dishes rarely amounted to more than the sum of their many parts. However, staff were charming, the joint was jumping (this is not a place for a quiet dinner à deux) and it’s not every night you get to eat with a panorama of London before you.
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