Even midweek, this place is packed to its quaint rafters with parents, grandparents and other groups making the most of Dulwich Park’s varied amenities (recumbent bikes, the new all-weather ping-pong tables, horse riding). But the café used to be better. The menu above the counter still looks convincing – meat is from Dulwich butcher William Rose, and fish from Moxon’s – but on a recent visit, the specials board listed only two dishes, eggs benedict and salad niçoise.
An interminable queue tailed around the central ordering station all afternoon, but at least the food came quickly once our order was placed. We tried both specials, plus bacon, egg and chips; while everything was well executed, nothing was memorable. Staff were chaotic and ill-informed. There’s a well-stocked play area and plenty of outdoor tables overlooking the park, but nice touches such as selling baby food and sun-cream don’t make up for impersonal service and a lack of verve in the kitchen.