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<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
Pearl sits in an annexe of a deluxe hotel, housed in a striking building that was once the headquarters of Pearl Assurance. The beautiful grand dining room, complete with marble columns and a stylish bar, combines the best of Edwardian architecture with contemporary furnishings. The ambience is cleverly softened by warm shades of wood, cream leather and delicate hand-strung white pearls. Jun Tanaka has been the executive chef here since 2004, and he has been busy setting up gourmet catering van Street Kitchen of late.
Pea foam and pea salad made a lovely prelude to our meal – though a soup spoon was too large for the dinky dish. Such little things matter at this level, and service too could have been sharper and more engaging. We continued in proper fashion with a vivacious mackerel fondant. This eye-catching dish came with superb smoked eel and mini-vegetables (turnips, carrots and cauliflower) served à la grecque circling the fondant.
Tanaka’s cookbook is entitled Simple to Sensational, and true to its front cover we were treated to a perfect Ely lamb wellington rounded off with minted peas and roasted Jersey Royals. We resisted the cheeses given the hefty £15 supplement, settling for a strawberry and champagne jelly topped with vanilla foam and crumble, which arrived in a glass compote jar; however, it turned out to be too sweet and playful for our liking.
Fellow diners were corporate types, and the French-focused, pricey wine list is heavily geared to their expense accounts.
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