Penk's

Time Out says

Fri Sep 30 2011

A classic, oft-changing and well-executed bistro menu keeps Queen’s Park diners coming back to this neighbourhood stalwart. There certainly wasn’t much to grumble about when the Burgundy-style roast chicken breast arrived, or indeed the grilled fillet of bream on warm salad – but, then again, there wasn’t much to rave about either.

It seems the kitchen likes to play things safe, with tried and tested standards: a disappointing trait considering the prices (around £13 for a main dish, £7 for starters), and one that left us craving a little more imagination and daring. Still, high-quality produce is used and there’s an exciting wine list to explore.

Penk’s homely vibe well suits the food too, and quiz nights and meal deals add to the community feel. Service was casual rather than slick, with dressed-down, sociable staff who are eager to please.

The simple decor is similarly comfortable. A well-worn sofa faces fold-back windows at the front (a nice spot to share a Spanish charcuterie board), while candle-topped tables for two dominate the space further back. In all, a cosy, if not thrilling, set-up.