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Is now closed.
Restaurants may open and close all the time in London, but lately there’s been a rash of brand-new establishments that are already planning when to shut up shop. Simon Rogan kickstarted the trend with his two-year ‘pop-up’ Roganic. Now the team behind smart eateries Pied à Terre and L’Autre Pied have taken up the torch with Pieds Nus. Housed in the space formerly occupied by Roganic, this worthy successor runs until March 11, 2014.
Like the name (meaning ‘bare feet’), the concept here is baring all – in a culinary sense, at least. Headed by Ed Dutton, the kitchen produces stripped-back food, much of which is raw, or cooked on a low heat. The decor is also intentionally ‘raw’, with table legs made of industrial piping and naked-filament bulbs on looping wires.
Food presentation is artful, though, and the flavours well considered. A subtle rainbow of raw, pickled and charred veg contained sweet, vinegared carrot shavings, celeriac slices, semi-dried tomatoes and a scattering of micro coriander, among others.
Of the hot(-ish) dishes, salmon confitted at 42°C had a silken texture, while beef short ribs (slow-braised at 65°C) melted in the mouth. Carbs are kept to the minimum – just the occasional smear of potato puree or chunk of bread.
For innovative dishes and top-notch service, Pieds Nus has got off on the right foot.
Reviewed by Celia Plender