Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
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Time Out says
Thu Oct 18 2012
The gentrification of Bermondsey Street marches on, with Pizarro (and its more casual sibling José) having joined the front line. Though Spanish chef José Pizarro’s reputation was built at the casual Brindisa tapas bars (where he was co-founder and exec chef), this restaurant showcases his classier side. The interiors take traditionally rustic elements – warm woods, exposed bricks, open kitchen – and lend them a sophisticated touch; all smooth, polished edges and designer lighting.
Likewise, the kitchen takes classic Spanish dishes and moves them upmarket (though the result is not without flaws). We enjoyed the velvety centres of our dinky ham croquetas (in spite of the scant jamón) alongside a sea-salty trio of just-cooked razor clams, served straight from the plancha with morsels of chorizo. But to follow, dainty slabs of terrific rosemary-scented lamb were undermined by a bed of Puy lentils (studded with braised celery, carrots and onions) which had been wincingly over-salted. Happily, a joyful pud – airy chocolate sorbet on two thin slices of brownie, scattered with pieces of cherry, strawberry and mint – marked a return to form.
Given the small portions, prices are rather stiff, but there’s a strong selection of sherry and Iberian wines, and staff are knowledgeable and charming.
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