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Off the back of success in the north and east of the city, the Porky’s bandwagon has now pulled into west London – although, these barbecue guys may not have done their homework. Fulham Road, after all, is not known for its high footfall, so this branch has been left to build a customer base from little more than the occasional local. The result? Nothing short of tumbleweed blowing across the floor as you enter.
The food served here only passes muster. Baby back ribs were meat-heavy and dry when they arrived at our table, but the house sauce – sweet and fruity with little emphasis on smoke or spice – saved the day (and the dish). Burgers, pulled pork and onion rings left us feeling indifferent. However, chilli cheese fries with jalapeños should be first on anyone’s order list.
Unfortunately, the nearby and better-placed opposition is dark, sweaty, bluesy and messy whereas Porky’s is plain, sterile, well lit and empty. Not even the neighbouring Chelsea & Westminster could save this joint.