Cantina del Ponte

A few yards downriver from Le Pont de la Tour, Cantina del Ponte remains a respectable, if businesslike restaurant, not noticeably altered since its change of ownership from Conran Restaurants to D&D London. The food isn’t fussy, but the views of Tower Bridge are distracting. Inside, a Tuscan market mural and terracotta floors seek to transform a featureless four-square riverside room into a little piece of campagna.The menu describes serious Italian cooking, but the food smacks of standardisation on the plate: like Habitat is to Heal’s – mass market copies of something more sophisticated. So, following diverting starters (including quail and radicchio, tuscan summer salad and a couple of soups), pappardelle with porcini and rabbit ragù was as plain and simple as the tagliatelle with prawns and salsa cruda. At £11.50 and £13 these were pricey for primi piatti, especially when fish and meat courses range from £12.50 to £15.50. Slow-roast pork was a good sticky dish, but spring lamb was ordinary and chewy. It would be easy to write off this place as an upmarket canteen for local offices, but service is breezily efficient and Cantina, like its wine list, is not without charm.

Services

Available for hire: Restaurant available for hire
Child facilities: Babies and children welcome: children's portions; high chairs
Dress code: smart casual
Outdoor tables: 20, terrace

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