Almeida

Now that the Conran empire has been bought out by former managers and rebranded D&D London, changes may be on the way. For the moment, however, the Conran characteristics still seem to be in place at Almeida: some things are excellent, others not, and the whole experience – above all the service – comes with an air of corporate charmlessness, a lack of any real distinctiveness or individual involvement. Decor and lighting are discreetly contemporary rather than full-on designer, creating a more placid feel. The prix-fixe menus are decent value, and there are well-priced quality wines as well as grand crus on the hefty wine list. Starters were a high point: crayfish with coriander salad and saffron dressing, and seared tuna with chervil and parsley salad were both delicious, infused with delicate flavours. Breast of landaise chicken with piquillo peppers, chorizo and parsley, and roast cod with sauté potatoes, lentils and chives weren’t quite on the same level: the sweet peppers were not matched by the blandish chicken, and the nicely done fish was overpowered by heavily salted vegetables. Enjoyable enough, but with nothing like the kind of buzz one should expect from fine dining.

Services

Available for hire: Restaurant available for hire
Child facilities: Babies and children welcome: high chairs
Disabled: toilet
Outdoor tables: 8, pavement

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