Enoteca Turi

On a sunny Monday lunchtime we had Enoteca Turi almost to ourselves. The room looked lovely, and the warmth of the welcome showed no hint of the gloom sometimes found in a nearly empty restaurant. We were equally pleased by the accomplished cooking. Apart from a slightly undercooked risotto, everything we sampled was of near-perfect quality. A starter of deep-fried buffalo mozzarella with roasted butternut squash showed that the kitchen has a light hand, even with potentially rich dishes. But the star here, as the name suggests, is the wine. If you took the 13 pages of the ‘Rest of the World’ section, the list would rank among London’s best. Add the 36 pages devoted to Italy and you know you’re dealing with something special; the country is covered from top to toe, with ample choice at around £20. Mark-ups are low, especially for pricier wines; one fancy claret was selling for little more than retail price. Each dish is marked with a number indicating a wine – available by the glass – that will suit it. At most restaurants, you decide what to eat and then choose something to drink. At Enoteca Turi, you might consider reversing those steps.

Services

Booking: Booking advisable
Child facilities: Babies and children admitted
Disabled: toilet
No smoking: No smoking. Separate room for parties, seats 30

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