Alastair Little

The reputation of this Soho stalwart rests on its pioneering role in the ‘invention’ of Modern European cooking some 20 years ago, and on its ability to handle high-quality, seasonal ingredients with aplomb. But Alastair Little hasn’t been involved with the place for several years, so perhaps our disappointment on a recent visit was inevitable. Our meal began well; the set dinner menu was enticing, and the garnet-red juice of blood orange, rhubarb and cranberries made a delicious aperitif. Next, an earthy soup of jerusalem artichokes was enhanced by truffles and an accompanying wild mushroom tart. But nothing else really sang. The sizzling prawns were oversalted, and fillet steak was served with a too runny béarnaise and indifferent chips. Duck breast ‘schnitzel’ was also too salty, while its garnishes of cucumber and beetroot were insipid. For dessert, vanilla panna cotta came with stewed rhubarb and pistachio praline; each element was lovely, but the tastes and textures sat awkwardly together. Ricotta and lemon zest pancakes were tasty, yet seemed more suitable for a hefty breakfast. On the plus side, service was friendly, and we enjoyed the quiet, unassuming atmosphere of the dining room, with its pale colours and abstract paintings.

Services

Available for hire: Separate room for parties, seats 25
Child facilities: Babies and children admitted
Outdoor tables: 2, pavement

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