Smiths of Smithfield

The extraordinary popularity of John Torode’s four-floor warehouse is testament to its reliability. No matter how busy it gets, standards remain constant. The ground floor holds a bar perpetually packed with a democratic mix of City workers and night owls, its fever-pitch vibe at odds with the more demure British restaurant, Top Floor. The first floor has recently been converted into ‘Wine Rooms’, offering small and big plates and wines, but the hub of the operation remains the second-floor Dining Room, its bare-brick walls and raucous acoustics offering an ad-agency approximation of kinetic urban style. Repeated visits have taught us a few fail-safe lessons, not least that eating fresh pays dividends. For starters, simple but beautiful asparagus was more successful than uninspiring Portuguese saltcod fritters. For mains, the excellent burgers remain better bets than the cheap-tasting steaks. We also enjoyed a characterful risotto made with truffled leeks and jerusalem artichokes. The wine list contains a few cheapies, but you’ll need to spend at least £20 to get anything of substance. Table service, as usual, was excellent; on a packed Saturday night, our waitress made a very difficult job look easy.

Services

Available for hire: Separate room for parties, seats 26
Child facilities: Babies and children welcome (restaurant): high chairs
Disabled: toilet
Entertainment: DJs 7pm Thur-Sat ground floor
Outdoor tables: 4, pavement; 6, terrace

http://www.timeout.com/london/restaurants/4502.html