Assa

Considering it charges the same – less, in fact – than those dreadful eat-all-you-dare buffets that plague the West End, Assa is really rather good. This cosy cabin of Koreana, decorated with authentic advertisements and cartoons, hums happily during its bargain-basement lunchtimes. It's close enough to Denmark Street to attract musicians, who mix in with the indigenous diners, attracted by the low prices between noon and 3pm, when £4.50 buys a plate of rice and stir-fried meats, prawns or spicy squid, flavoured with zingy red chilli. Plus unexpected side dishes of spinach and kimch'i of equal zing. Plus a cup of modest miso. Bargain. As an alternative, hot pots of tuna, marinated beef, spicy cod or mixed seafood sizzle on tabletop cookers. There's Korean beer to drink, plus herb or plum wine. Our only brickbats are the crass dish pictures in the front window.

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