Morgan M

The real deal. After so many overhyped but essentially ordinary restaurants, it’s a delight to find one that really delivers. Morgan Meunier’s cooking is supremely skilful; painstakingly intricate but without any just-to-impress gestures, producing multiple layers of subtle flavours. As in any first-cru French restaurant, the delicacies begin with the extras – on our visit, an appetiser of wonderfully fragrant beetroot soup (no relation whatsoever to borscht) with roquefort mousse. We could have stayed to contemplate that, but moved on to earthy foie gras and artichoke terrine, and perfect-quality seared tuna with a gorgeous, genuinely innovative red pepper sorbet. Every course produced unannounced delights: sea bass arrived with an elusively sweet saffron sauce, fillet of veal with a woody taste of morels. And the £34 set dinner (an extraordinary bargain) comprises three courses, so you carry on to the irresistible desserts, such as the chocolate platter with a Valrhona sorbet. Meunier is also known for his vegetarian creations, and there’s an all-vegetarian menu. The wine list is on a par with the food, and service is utterly charming. An experience that stays in the mind, and lures you to return.

Services

Available for hire: Separate room for parties, seats 12
Child facilities: Babies and children admitted (lunch)
Dress code: smart casual

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