Meza

You wouldn’t think old-school Spanish tapas had a place among all the sushi and dim sum of medialand, but that is what’s for dinner now at the former home of Conran’s Mezzo on Wardour Street. Dishes such as peppers stuffed with crab, pan-fried chicken livers, or morcilla with quail’s egg and white beans are virtually unreconstructed Spanish classics, although the presentation here is meticulous. There’s the odd new-school touch too – such as the velvety pea purée that came with some deliciously juicy scallops, each one topped with a slice of slightly crisp fried chorizo. A slice of tarta de santiago (the famous almond cake) was jazzed up with a scoop of cinnamon ice-cream. There’s nothing Spanish about the spacious dining room, which is divided into a hotchpotch of sections in various contemporary styles. Apart from the food, a large bar and a great drinks list are the draws for the evening Soho crowds. A good tip is to come here for lunch, when Meza tends to be much quieter, in contrast to many of its busier, oversubscribed neighbours.

Services

Available for hire: Separate room for parties, seats 38
Child facilities: Babies and children admitted (lunch)
Disabled: lift; toilet

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