© Helen Cathcart
Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Tue Oct 16 2012
This snappy Wanstead newcomer is the latest venture from Max Renzland, who ran a series of terrific French bistros in the suburbs in the 1990s. It’s smart but relaxed, in looks, service and food. Wooden tables and chairs and (uncomfortable) banquettes are set against dark grey paintwork and bare brick walls; lampshades and cushions provide flashes of scarlet. The rear is quieter than the main room.
Midweek, the place was bouncing with a lively local crowd, drawn by the classic ‘bourgeois’ brasserie food and the fair prices – the menu du jour is a particular bargain. Highlights included, to start, an intense aubergine bayildi and first-rate selection of charcuterie (featuring rosette de Lyon and goose and duck rillettes). To follow, an asparagus, pea, broad bean and goat’s cheese risotto was perfectly textured, but the cheese overwhelmed the other flavours. Navarin d’agneu – a traditional stew of lamb and spring veg – was tasty even if the meat was overcooked. Timing was also an issue with the shrivelled frites, which had been left too long before serving.
Redemption came with the desserts, uniformly fabulous, from an intense cassis sorbet and refreshing raspberry parfait to an ultra-rich chocolate tart. Aperitifs include pineau de charentes and assorted kirs, while the all-French wine list has plenty of choice by the glass and carafe.
Provender 17 High Street
020 8530 3050
- Opening hours:
Meals served noon-9.30pm Mon-Thur; 9.30-10pm Fri, Sat; 9.30am-5pm Sun
Tube: Snaresbrook tube
Main courses £9-£20. Set meal (Tue-Thur; noon-7pm Fri, Sat) £9.95 2 courses, £12.95 3 courses. Meal for two with drinks and service: around £70.
- 17 High Street
- 020 8530 3050
- 17 High Street
Eating and drinking facilities. Licensed. Restaurant and bar facilities. Reservations required. Accessible facilities. General facilities. Private rooms. Available for hire. Outdoor facilities. Tables outdoors
- Type of event: