Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
Time Out says
Fri Jul 20 2012
Aiming for the French bistro ideal, Racine comes close. It really does have a neighbourhood vibe, even if the neighbours are perfectly preserved couples of a certain age or well-mannered ex-pats of all ages. This isn’t a snooty place, despite the moneyed location; the welcome is warm and the room unintimidating.
The mirrors, leather banquettes, white linen and gleaming glassware are as comforting as the sight of daube de boeuf à la bourguignonne, pomme mousseline on the carte. The prix fixe is good value: garlic and mint soup, roast lamb with creamed flageolets, and profiteroles with chocolate sauce made a generously portioned, well-flavoured supper.
More interest came from that day’s specials; a starter of ventrèche (like pancetta) with Jersey Royals and broad beans was a savoury treat, while roast quail with morteau sausage, tarbais (haricot) beans and herbs (from the main menu) also provided robust flavours and melting texture. There’s lighter fare too: crab salad with herb omelette and horseradish, say, or skate with cider vinegar and parsley. The wine list, global but French-leaning, has plenty by the glass. Staff – there when you want them, invisible when you don’t – ensure the place runs like clockwork.
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