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<strong>Rating: </strong>3/5
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Time Out says
Wed Oct 17 2012
Relocated to Dering Street, this flagship of Das Sreedharan’s restaurant chain retains the signature cochineal-pink frontage, and the southern Indian artefacts remain prominent in the decor. The menu is popular with aficionados of South Indian cuisine who come here for the renowned Keralite cooking. Fish and seafood are specialities – as are the crunchy-snack appetisers, made with ground pulses and rice, and partnered by splendid own-made pickles.
Dining here isn’t for the timid. We loved our extremely peppery rasam: a steamy seafood broth, seasoned with mustard seeds and citrous curry leaves. Kingfish curry (kappayum meenum) benefited from a lovely fried onion masala, spiked with red chillies and softened by creamy coconut milk: a marvellous match with lime-drenched rice flecked with fried lentils. A pity the fish was overcooked, though. A simple but stunning thoran contrasted well with the richness of curries; the stir-fried cabbage, tastefully spiced with mustard seeds, was showered with coconut shreds. Kerala is also known for fiery meat dishes, but lamb curry was quite bland compared to the strident spicing in other dishes. Staff can be slow, although they’re always well meaning.
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