Restaurants

Aldo Zilli’s mini Soho chain comprises this decade-old fish specialist, the adjacent Zilli Café and Italian restaurant Signor Zilli. Zilli Fish has the feel of an upmarket brasserie, with a sliding glass frontage that can be opened on hot days (though why you’d want to let in the cacophony of Brewer Street is beyond us). Piscine pleasures, ‘fresh from Billingsgate Market’, are the thing. We couldn’t fault the presentation, nor the quality of the ingredients: tuna carpaccio with rocket, parmesan, olive oil and lemon juice was heavenly; monkfish wrapped in pancetta with sautéed wild mushrooms was a worthy follow-on; and the tuna steak, served with purple broccoli scented with garlic and chilli, was a lovely piece of fish, perfectly cooked. Staff were polished and effusive, the evening crowd the usual mix for this sort of establishment – well-to-do families and earnest couples. The shortish wine list has the expected lean towards Italy; the house white, a Trebbiano, was light, crisp and a fair bargain. For those who want to continue the Zilliness at home, Aldo’s cookbook is for sale at the counter. His master classes are accessible through the website.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008