Restaurants

Large floor-to-ceiling windows at Matsuri’s corner site keep the lively Holborn surroundings in view, but at bay. Interior furnishings consist of subtle wooden tables and chairs, and elegant partially-revealing blinds that separate the sushi counter from the main dining room. The serving staff are friendly and knowledgeable, helping customers navigate the wine and saké menus. Traditional Japanese food is the primary attraction. Excellent tokkurimushi soup was served in a cunning three-layered bowl, allowing for the dipping of pickled and steamed vegetables, prawn and tofu (which came floating in a rich miso broth), in the more pungent daikon-laden dipping sauce. Semi-firm tofu, deep-fried, was topped with robustly flavoured fish flakes in a sweet soy sauce, creating a perfect balance. A mixed sushi boat included some high-quality fatty salmon and lean tuna, plus a roll of salmon and avocado topped with roe. Black cod arrived in a generous portion. Book a grill-side table in the lower-ground dining room for a teppanyaki cooking display while you eat.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009