Restaurants

This is the newer, trendier sister of the original St James’s Matsuri. The family resemblance isn’t obvious; here, sleekness and minimalism prevails, with wood-slatted walls separating the teppanyaki room and the sushi counter from the main restaurant. It takes a while to peruse the menus – one for sushi, an à la carte and a seasonal list of chef’s specials. Read carefully, though; the teishoku aren’t the most imaginative nor are they particularly good value. We put together a far more interesting feast for a similar outlay. There’s a ‘fusion’ edge to the chef’s specials. Octopus was marinated in olive oil, served on marinated seaweed and vegetables and topped with a light tomato sauce and tiny cubes of gelatine flavoured with balsamic vinegar. Back in traditional territory, yaki nasu (pieces of grilled aubergine topped with bonito shavings) was smoky and succulent. Tender rare-grilled ox tongue was served with two dipping sauces: soy and mustard, and sesame oil. Japanese pickles provided piquancy and crunch. The only let-down was a rather heavy tempura. Service is sweet, polite and well-informed.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008