Restaurants

Neighbourhood restaurants in the heart of central London are always fun to discover, doubly so when theyre as intimate and warm as Back to Basics. Pavement tables, delicate glass flowers, colourful globe lampshades and a wall-sized blackboard listing the 15 or so daily fish specials combine to make for a charming experience marred by just one thing: the consistency in food quality. In a Jekyll and Hyde lunch, dressed crab with watercress mayonnaise, toast and boiled egg was huge, delicate and delicious, but a main of monkfish cheeks, king prawn kebab and spicy couscous veered from fluffy and delicious (the couscous) to oversalted (the prawns); and from dense, meaty fish to a greasy batter coating. The variety of both shellfish and fish is impressive; barracuda, sea bream, swordfish, cod, salmon, mussels, clams, oysters, prawns, and crab in several guises were all on the board on our visit. Theres a tendency towards overly complex combinations, but with friendly staff, a laid-back ambience and super-fresh fish, this is neighbourhood dining at its nicest. And most generous: vast portions left no room for the small but tempting selection of puds (bread and butter pudding, apple tart and the like).

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008