Restaurants

Dining at the super-successful restaurant and private members’ club Embassy is an odd affair. We began our evening in the 1970s-looking bar before moving to a dining area that’s reminiscent of 18th-century France: an unexpected shift. The fact the food was brilliant was another oddity. These days, head chef Garry Hollihead spends time at new souped-up fish and chip restaurant Geales, leaving the obviously capable Mladen Vidakovic in charge. A beef tartare starter was deeply flavoured with spices and capers, on slim discs of plain beetroot: flawless. Salmon sashimi was subtle, with notes of fennel and dill, served with sweet pickled ginger. Chicken breast sat on a round of dauphinoise potatoes, surrounded by aubergine spears, broad beans and tiny, long-stemmed mushrooms: great ingredients presented without fuss, allowing their flavours to shine. Service, in contrast, was a shambles. Starters appeared before wine; we had to ask three times for tap water; and, worst of all, we were told there were no chips, only to see platefuls being delivered to other tables. Perhaps those diners had ordered from the £20 set menu, the one we weren’t shown until the pudding stage. We emerged mentally bruised and a bit bemused; food this good – and pricey – deserves more respect.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008