Restaurants

Credit crunch? What’s that? There was little sign of belt-tightening in the financial sector among the well-oiled crowds around the bars, shops and eating places that have taken over the Victorian grandeur of Leadenhall Market. Chamberlain’s is one of the more individual venues, with a bright ground-floor space with outside terrace, a more sedate dining room above and an oddly modern basement bar. The menu offers plenty of Mod-European combinations, but its centrepiece is fresh fish – lemon sole, halibut, sea bass and more – served plain grilled or in batter (a very geezer-ish indulgence at these lofty prices). Service is zippy. A complimentary little cup of gazpacho was a nice touch, and our grilled sea bass and lemon sole were of a high quality, and very properly cooked. In between, though, a starter of avocado, crab and prawn salad was let down by bog-standard salad ingredients, and any accompaniments to go with the fish (all extra) were downright dull, such as a tiny pot of ‘seasonal greens’ (mangetout and green beans) for a wildly over the top £4.25. Prices on the refined wine list are also exaggerated, but this seems to go with the territory.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009