Restaurants

While ‘traditional’ and ‘English’ are two ideas to treasure, put these together with ‘decor’ and you get Green’s. It almost resembles a parody of an Angus Steak House, with its British Racing Green colour scheme, booth seating, and brassy fittings that can look MFI circa 1981 unless you’re paying attention. The menu also clings to the past, though some dangerously modern rocket salad is discernible. So who eats here? At the seafood bar, Colonel Mustard and Professor Plum. Seated at a banquette, Miss Scarlet and the Detective. These English stereotypes still exist in St James’s, seemingly happy to pay about a tenner for a starter and £15-£20 for most main courses. The food is fine: potted shrimps with toast was enjoyable, and a tomato-rich crab bisque had good stock. But nothing on the menu surprised us. Salmon fish cakes were packed with good fish; cod was fresh and nicely crumbed on top, with braised lettuce below – yet such cooking belongs to a bygone era. Ah, that’s why people come here: for reassurance that the England before hoodies, mobile phones and CCTV still exists. Mystery solved: it was Mr Parker-Bowles, in the kitchen, with a bain-marie and blowtorch.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008