Restaurants

Resolutely urban Stroud Green Road may not be the best starting point from which to be transported to the Indian Ocean island of Mauritius, but Chez Liline succeeds in whisking you away. It does so not by dint of its decor – the small room is furnished with simple tables and chairs, bamboo screens and generic tropical island posters – but by its menu of Mauritian seafood. Most ingredients come fresh via the fishmonger next door (also owned by Chez Liline). On our visit they included native lobster, queen scallops, prawns and various sea fish – cooked in sauces that, despite familiar flavourings like chilli and ginger, tasted unlike anything we’ve eaten. A mix of the rich sauces of French Creole cuisine and the hotter, spicier end of Chinese and African cooking resulted in a plate of creole fish in tomatoes and chilli that was substantial yet delicate; we could easily discern individual spices and flavours. Garlic and chilli perfectly complemented the meatiness of lobster, but didn’t overpower its subtle fresh flavours; a dark and glossy-brown fish curry was rich and powerful, though retained the delicacy of the fish. Desserts are standard French with a twist: crêpe, crème brûlée and papaya tart.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008