Restaurants

In summer, this spacious three-level fish restaurant comes into its own when the outdoor terrace is hopping and the light streams into the upstairs/ downstairs dining rooms from a pretty internal courtyard. Just as sunny is the bright, can-do attitude of the young serving staff. The menu is a mix of fishy favourites (potted shrimps, fish pie and fish cakes) and more adventurous dishes, including Cornish shark with tomato vinaigrette, and sea trout with samphire and orange beurre blanc. Even so, every second order is for fried fish of the day (haddock, ling or pollock) with chips. A well-made terrine of ray wing in aspic was like an upmarket take on jellied eels, while a platter of fresh prawns with garlic mayo was a simple, no-frills treat. Best of all was a generous serving of pan-fried brill: the three meaty, crisp-skinned fillets served with crisp pancetta, wilted spring onions and baby onions. The only duff note was the long wait between courses, due to a very large group dining downstairs – simply a case of right place, wrong night.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009