Restaurants

A couple of pirouettes from Sadler’s Wells, the Fish Shop is an attractive spot, set over three levels, with yellow walls, pale wooden furniture and large windows, including a glass wall overlooking a pretty back garden (out of bounds, sadly). It’s hard to believe it was once a pub. The atmosphere is relaxed, sedate even: partly because the place was only half-full on our Friday night visit. The menu is straightforward, running from crustacea – oysters, prawns, whelks, seafood platters – to soups, fish and chips (available deep-fried in batter or matzo meal, steamed or grilled, and with mash or chips), along with more elaborate dishes. We’ve complained about lacklustre cooking in the past, and there were some duff dishes this time too: salt and pepper squid was rubbery and lacked piquancy; haddock, salmon and tarragon fish cakes were stodgy. But the oysters (£1.75 a pop) were good quality, and a main of pan-fried sea trout was a fine specimen, well matched with braised fennel, cherry tomatoes and saffron sauce. Puds tend towards the homely (sticky toffee pudding, crumble, treacle tart), not that we’re complaining; lemon tart was a creamy, tangy treat. An impressive choice of bottled beers supplements the well-priced wine list.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008