Restaurants

Loch Fyne’s own fisheries and smokehouse provide its 30-plus restaurants countrywide with fresh fishy ingredients; we’ve always found dishes here competently and satisfyingly prepared, if a little by-the-numbers unadventurous. A starter of brandan orach smoked salmon was moist and densely flavoured, set off well by a garlicky aïoli. Three of the four kinds of marinated herring in a sampler platter tasted rather too much the same (essentially: vinegary), but were attractively presented on a moulded plate. Also pretty was a main of moules marinières, served in a heavy black dish, its lid removed with a flourish by a chummy, knowledgeable waiter. The highlight? The oysters: plump, delicious and tasting as if just plucked from the sea, served simply on crushed ice. The wine list is adequate – expectedly white-heavy, with plenty of choice by the glass. This branch in Covent Garden, like its sister restaurants, is styled with Fyne’s trademark pine-wood blandness: simple furniture, chalkboarded specials, nautical watercolours. But then simple is what Loch Fyne does best.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008