Restaurants

It’s hard to know what to make of Loch Fyne: the staff are lovely, the decor (if you avoid the dark overspill basement) pleasant and airy, and the menu appealing and interesting, featuring a number of reasonably priced dishes. So far, so good. If only the food gave as much pleasure. At times, it does. Loch Fyne oysters (£9 for six) are excellent, not too milky, as fresh as daisies, and with a great texture. The kippers are succulent and meaty without being overpoweringly smoky, and at £7 would make a lovely light supper. But our gravadlax was bland, and soused herring was too strong for its four accompanying marinades. Of our mains, garlic butter king prawns were downright peculiar, their texture mushy and ill-defined – though as soon as we questioned their freshness the waiter was only too happy to replace them. The mussels in moules marinière were belters (plump, fresh and juicy), but the chips in the side order were a travesty: pale, pasty and fat, and an insult to the classic moules frites combo. We left sated by good portions, happy with the prices, impressed by the service, but distinctly unsure about the food.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009