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For years the Lobster Pot, run by Breton chef Hervé Regent and his wife Nathalie (on front-of-house duties), has provided a warm Gallic refuge from the grim surrounds of the Elephant & Castle hinterland. The two-level interior is an eccentric mishmash: fishing nets and lobster pots clutter the wood-panelled walls, real fish swim behind portholes – all to a soundtrack of seagulls and fog horns. It’s a bit like being in a Jules Verne novel. The cooking is determinedly French and very good. Lobster is a speciality, as you’d expect, but there’s also a popular seafood platter, classics such as skate wing with brown butter and capers, and even rabbit, duck, steak and chicken for die-hard meat eaters. An eight-course ‘surprise menu’ (with or without lobster) is also available, plus a handful of daily specials. A generous starter of poached prawns and scallops, served in a mini copper saucepan, came with a lovely mushroom, cream and Pernod sauce (much lighter than it sounds), while a main-course bouillabaisse was a richly flavoured, fish-packed treat, including an ultra-garlicky rouille. If you’ve room, finish with profiteroles with chocolate sauce, or pancake with raspberry sauce. The wine list is very short but does the job.
Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008
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