Restaurants

Waiting for a seat at the sushi counter or a booth at the back to become free is no hardship here, thanks to the chic, dimly lit first-floor bar: a sort of Boujis club for those who eat. You almost dont want to leave when your electronic beeper buzzes and flashes, telling you its time to reach for your chopsticks. As with all conveyor belt sushi, the simpler items work best. New-style salmon sashimi (cut thinly and dressed with lemon and oil) had a real spring in its step; and an omelette and chive sushi roll was bright and bouncy. In contrast, gyoza dumplings had a ready-meal anonymity; thai-style coconut soup had overdosed on sugar and fish sauce; and the rice paper skin of the vietnamese duck and hoi sin roll was so chewy the filling kept popping out. But dining at Itsu is still fun, with everything you need in front of you from napkins to spoons, soy, wasabi and a service button. Warning: staff clear away your colour-coded plates as you progress, so you could lose count of how much youve eaten and spent.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008