Restaurants

In good weather – or if you want to cock a snook at climate change by sitting under a patio heater – the terrace here is one of the City’s top eating spots. Even inside is nice, especially if you’re near a window or overlooking the central courtyard. The restaurant is more formal, more expensive and more adventurous in its cooking. We ate in the cheaper brasserie, which was comfortable enough, apart from our Lilliputian table for two. A starter of asparagus with tomato and herb dressing, at the height of the English season, sported only four spears (over £2 apiece) which were almost devoid of flavour. Everything else was good if not the stuff of ecstasy. A chunky terrine was homely, vegetable tart was cleverly enlivened by chunks of roquefort. Crustaceans are a strong feature. A top-notch crab salad arrived perched on tasty avocados along with a creamy ‘bavarois’ of brown crab meat. Some city folk who were eating and drinking enthusiastically nearby had plates piled high with meaty dishes that looked appealing. The wine list pays due respect to the moneyed magnates, but there are just enough bottles under £30 to keep the rest of us mirthful. Apart from the one duff dish, the Coq showed that it’s still shining brightly in a competitive part of town.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009