Restaurants

The Conran group may now be under the D&D banner, but nothing seems to have changed at this City favourite. Perched atop the striped behemoth that is No.1 Poultry, it’s an architecturally imposing spot. You ascend by lift to a central, circular bar, lush with greenery. Leading off this is the dining area, and a large wedge-shaped lawn offering striking views of the surrounding buildings. Tablecloths and comfortable club chairs mark out the restaurant from the smaller brasserie (where tables verge on too small and elbows are wedged), but both spaces have attractive, canopy-covered terraces. Polite, black-clad staff dash busily about, though service can be slow. Judging by the number of suits at lunchtime, the Square Mile expense account is in no danger of imminent extinction. Perhaps that’s why the chefs don’t have to try too hard with the food. From the brasserie menu, a main of tuna brochettes produced three skewers of perfectly cooked fish, but the accompanying ratatouille was watery. A hefty ribeye with béarnaise and chunky chips was pleasant, yet nothing special. Marine life is a strength, including oysters, langoustines, seafood platters and caviar. Best was a silky passionfruit tart with crème fraîche. The restaurant menu is longer, more elaborate and pricier, with most mains around £20.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008