Restaurants

London’s first outpost of this French bakery chain opened at this branch just seven years ago in 2000 – more than 100 years after the business was established. Pass through the shop selling traditionally made breads, pastries and cakes to the airy tea room, and the grandeur suggested by white panelled walls, historical murals and red velvet banquettes is beginning to look distinctly shabby round the edges – which isn’t surprising considering the steady traffic of tourists and office workers. Breakfast concentrates on baskets of Paul’s deliciously dense breads and croissants, or hot, savoury filled versions of the latter. Lunch options are equally Gallic: omelettes, quiche, paillassons (grated potato pancakes with various toppings) and sweet crêpes, as well as substantial, impeccably fresh salads. Not everything is an unqualified success: a quiche from the specials board, made with tomato, tuna and crème fraîche, was a flavoursome but slightly soggy choice, although a coffee and eclair (not too sweet, with proper custard filling) couldn’t be faulted. Service is authentically pouty, but efficient.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008