Restaurants

By Jenni Muir

Food snobs have decreed that TexMex food is something to be sneered at, right along with its fans, especially after they've had a few too many tequila slammers or ice-slushy daiquiris. Will CalMex - a contemporary Californian spin on Mexican food - fare any better in London?

At least it doesn't come with a whooping, stag-night crowd at this Soho joint, an embryonic chain-style affair with tables and benches that look like they were knocked together from a flatpack. Despite the cheesy palm tree photographs lining the walls, you can almost imagine Pamela Anderson and Kid Rock dropping by for Bikini Salad Wraps and a couple of bottles of Snapple on the way home from Malibu Beach.

Native southern Californian cuisine has much in common with that of neighbouring Mexico, but that's not what we're talking here. Beach Burrito's concept reflects modern California's adoption of Mediterranean and Asian ingredients, so a beef wrap features creamy wasabi dressing, and there are mixed roast veg options for bikini-conscious starlets. Americana has not been forgotten either, with BLT, club and caesar salad fillings, and the carnitas (traditionally a spiced Mexican pork stew) is flavoured with orange and cola.

We enjoyed chicken taquitos, crisp cigars of tortillas and poultry, topped with chipotle sauce (made from smoked jalapeño chillis) and a nicely textured, great-tasting fresh guacamole. Also good was the own-made soft drink of fizzy water, fresh mint sprigs and a muddled half of lemon.

Beach Burrito's welcome and service were as sunny as California too. While it may not be as slick an operation as nearby Hummus Bros, its laidback beach-shack vibe is just the thing to brighten up a wintry British lunch hour. California dreaming, anyone?

Time Out London Issue 1898: January 3-10 2007