Restaurants

Opened in late 2006 by the people behind the Gun, the Well and the White Swan Pub & Dining Room gastropubs, the Empress has swiftly become a destination restaurant for east Londoners. It has managed this only by first succeeding as a great local, catering to the day-long sustenance and social needs of a varied clientele. With large windows, a mosaic floor, substantial bar and intriguing talking-point shell chandeliers, in looks it refers to pub, restaurant and grand café – and works as all three. Food is finessed British gastropub fare, in pleasing combinations: grilled sardines so fresh they might have swum on to their sourdough toast (served with tapenade and gremolata); a flavourful barnsley chop with broad bean bubble, cooked with the ability it deserved. Raspberry cranachan, and plum and frangipane tart, were less involving; this is definitely somewhere that does sturdy better than sweet, notably on the rotisserie, which turns out all manner of meats (including game and rare breeds) for diners to pull apart on wooden boards. Craft beers include two from Greenwich’s Meantime brewery. Chapel Down’s rated Brut NV is one of two house fizzes available by the glass (though the more expensive Roederer is the one eager staff suggest to undecided drinkers).

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008