Restaurants

By Guy Dimond

Another week, another refit for a Young's pub. The Dog & Fox in Wimbledon has a prime position in a prime part of London, and at last Young's is making the most of this handsome Georgian building with a complete overhaul. The new look is
startling: leather sofas one way, booth seating the other, and good, simple design. Best of all: it's now fully non-smoking, so you can better appreciate the food and drink.

The range of draught Young's and Charles Wells beers is exemplary; but if you fancy something slightly racier, hot Pimm's No3 Winter Cup is sold on tap - a brandy-based drink with orange zest and spices that tastes similar to mulled wine.

The menu's British-slanted, with ham hock terrine followed by fish and chips; both good and uncomplicated. As we'd booked for peak time on a Sunday lunch, the place was packed, which explained a lost order and the long delay for one of the two vegetarian main courses: a cheese-filled raviolo scented with truffle in a rich tomato concasse with basil oil and rocket. Rhubarb crumble was quite pedestrian, sticky toffee pudding better. Service was keen to please, and a faulty dish was knocked off our bill without fuss.

The Dog & Fox used to be a one of those pubs that was decent and popular, yet excelled at nothing. It's now much improved, and although not reaching for the heights of gastronomy, its location, good looks and reasonable prices will ensure it stays busy.

Time Out London Issue 1899: January 10-17 2006