Restaurants

Set in the middle of boutique land, this old-established eaterie still pulls in the punters. The awning outside advertises what’s on offer: salt beef, chopped liver, chicken soup, blintzes, borscht. Inside, the decor is simple and functional: mirrors and a wall trumpeting the restaurant’s reviews (‘best chicken soup in London’). At the back is a bar with bottles that seem to have been arranged by an interior decorator, yet few people drink wine here with their hefty portions of Jewish-style food. The menu caters to the lunch-and-shop crowd, with houmous and falafel, as well as salads. Our sautéd chicken with peppers and mushrooms on a bed of mixed leaves didn’t have the heimishe(home-made) taste of salt beef or tongue. Fish also comes in trendy versions: even the fried haddock is served hot (unlike the authentic cold fish served in England since Spanish Jews brought the dish here). Since Harry’s doesn’t follow rules of kashrut, patrons can choose dairy desserts after their meat. We found these hit and miss; lockshen pudding and blintzes weren’t as good as Grandma made, but the cheesecake and the warm almond tart were of professional pâtisserie standard.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2009