Restaurants

Despite the competition, with ten eateries within a few hundred yards, this long-established ‘Jewish style’ restaurant still packs ’em in. The decor is plain (granite tables, metallic chairs), but it’s the food that attracts the lunchtime shoppers and loyal local following. Harry’s proudly trumpets its excellent reputation, with a collage of reviews and comments on one wall (‘Best chicken soup in town,’ claims one). This is the place for nostalgia without the strict rules of kashrut: hot borscht with potato, deep-flavoured chopped liver and stuffed cabbage, followed by creamy cheesecake or lockshen pudding. Service is casual and offers little finesse, but the food is closer to homemade than you might expect. Lockshen soup was superb, tongue was full of flavour and the fried haddock tasted crisp and fresh, with tender flakes. The menu caters to all appetites, with lighter options of bagels, bean and barley soup and salads (mozzarella, houmous or sautéed chicken) alongside more hefty meat dishes and sandwiches. We sampled an apple strudel and a warm cherry and almond tart with crème fraîche from the famed dessert menu; both were pâtisserie standard. It’s just a shame you can’t try everything. A new mini concession (mainly a takeaway) has recently opened in Harrods.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008