Restaurants

  • Akari

     
  • By Kei Kikuchi

  • This pub-turned-bistro-turned-izakaya still looks like its first incarnation, with a matt-black exterior, expansive windows, high ceilings and a bar running up one side of the near-square room. Sitting by those big windows affords a splendid view of Essex Road station and a ceaseless parade of buses, including the 38, 73 and 271. Japanese modifications here are minimal - only the odd flower arrangement and a few large, brown saké bottles - but what particularly caught our eye were the vintage Asahi and Kirin beer posters, with attractively faded colours flattered by candlelight. A stylish touch to a Japanese eatery where the drinking is just as important.
    The menu's short on raw fish (only salmon sashimi and temaki feature on the regular carte), but long on warming comfort food such as noodles, tempura and stewed pork belly. Sui-gyoza made a lovely wintry alternative to the usual steamed and fried version, boasting a good quintet of minced pork and chive-filled dumplings bobbing amid squares of wakame seaweed and finely chopped spring onion in a simple dashi-based broth. A couple of chunky saké onigiri (nori-belted triangles of rice with flaked salmon at their cores) served warm went well with this. More summery was tuna tataki (raw inside, seared outside) on the list of specials. But it was cut into unexpectedly thick discs splattered with equally unexpected garlic mayonnaise and spicy soy sauce - which didn't quite work. The home-made cheesecake, however, was startlingly good.
    And the drinks? Asahi, Kirin and Hoegaarden are the beers on tap; with Yebisu and Orion adding Japanese bottled interest. Naturally there is hot and cold saké, as well as straight or mixed shochu, plus umeshu (plum wine). The limited spirits list does run to 12-year-old Glenfiddich, while the wine list is dominated by France and Spain.

  • Time Out London Issue 1902: January 31-February 6 2007

Time Out reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for meals. Of course, we cannot guarantee the accuracy or independence of user reviews.
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  1. Posted by caroline on 07 Sep 2009 13:41

    I used to live just down the road and went regularly to this lovely place. Excellent service and warm atmosphere that's quite baby-friendly as well.

  2. Posted by Regular Customer on 02 Feb 2009 16:26

    Definitely the best authentic Japanese restaurant in north & central London (I don't know any other locals like Acton or Finchley). Prices are very reasonable. Waitresses are all affable. However, I wish the place were much warmer (quite cold by the windows) & they surely need BGM consultant.

  3. Posted by Holly Floor on 14 Jan 2009 13:20

    Have eaten there on two separate occasions and both times left very satisfied. The food was delicious and the service we received was excellent. Definitely be heading back there soon ....

  4. Posted by Maia Kutner on 13 Nov 2008 09:57

    One of my favortie locals

  5. Posted by Misha Gorodnitzky (registered user) on 11 Apr 2008 20:20

    Great Japanese if you're not looking for the usual Japanese sushi or teppanyaki. Very nice ambiance too, feels like a gastro-pub. Prices around £6-£10 per dish and expect to get more than one dish per person.

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  • Details

  • 196 Essex Rd, Islington, N1 8LZ
  • Area: Islington
  • Tel: 020 7226 9943
  • Category: Japanese
  • Travel: Essex Rd rail
  • Times: Closed Mondays, open Tues-Sun Noon-11pm
  • Price: Meal for two with drinks and service: around £40
  • Map

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