Restaurants

By Kei Kikuchi

This pub-turned-bistro-turned-izakaya still looks like its first incarnation, with a matt-black exterior, expansive windows, high ceilings and a bar running up one side of the near-square room. Sitting by those big windows affords a splendid view of Essex Road station and a ceaseless parade of buses, including the 38, 73 and 271. Japanese modifications here are minimal - only the odd flower arrangement and a few large, brown saké bottles - but what particularly caught our eye were the vintage Asahi and Kirin beer posters, with attractively faded colours flattered by candlelight. A stylish touch to a Japanese eatery where the drinking is just as important.
The menu's short on raw fish (only salmon sashimi and temaki feature on the regular carte), but long on warming comfort food such as noodles, tempura and stewed pork belly. Sui-gyoza made a lovely wintry alternative to the usual steamed and fried version, boasting a good quintet of minced pork and chive-filled dumplings bobbing amid squares of wakame seaweed and finely chopped spring onion in a simple dashi-based broth. A couple of chunky saké onigiri (nori-belted triangles of rice with flaked salmon at their cores) served warm went well with this. More summery was tuna tataki (raw inside, seared outside) on the list of specials. But it was cut into unexpectedly thick discs splattered with equally unexpected garlic mayonnaise and spicy soy sauce - which didn't quite work. The home-made cheesecake, however, was startlingly good.
And the drinks? Asahi, Kirin and Hoegaarden are the beers on tap; with Yebisu and Orion adding Japanese bottled interest. Naturally there is hot and cold saké, as well as straight or mixed shochu, plus umeshu (plum wine). The limited spirits list does run to 12-year-old Glenfiddich, while the wine list is dominated by France and Spain.

Time Out London Issue 1902: January 31-February 6 2007