Restaurants

Sited in the Sofitel Hotel, this expansive restaurant attempts to liven up its dark wood decor with a cheery yellow and green colour scheme and quirky oversized lamps. Were not convinced it has managed to shake off the look and feel of an international hotel coffee shop. On our weekday evening visit, diners were sparse mostly suited business types and well-to-do American visitors. Popular choices include roasts, grills and pastas, and retro classics in the line of vol-au-vents, saucy scallops and rum babas. Mediterranean-style dishes are impressive: the welcome chill of gazpacho delivered a bold medley of full-flavoured tomatoes, peppers and garlicky tartness, rivalled only by the simplicity of a buffalo mozzarella and tomato salad, dressed with syrupy balsamic vinegar. Mains werent as illustrious: fried sea bass fillets were overcooked, although the addition of buttery, super-fresh samphire, tossed with crisp asparagus, lifted an otherwise underwhelming dish. A fairly priced wine list embraces New World selections alongside well-chosen classics. Service is attentive, if a tad detached. Early diners should check out the excellent-value set menus.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008