Restaurants

Magdalens very civilised interior all dark wood, aubergine paintwork and florally accessorised elegance leads you to suspect that its food will be as well-mannered as its staff. A pleasant surprise, then, to be ambushed by some spirited flavours on the daily-changing, largely British menu. Artichoke soup was as glossy in taste as in texture. Salade gourmande arrived thickly dressed: an enjoyably to-hell-with-it assembly of endive, foie gras, house-made duck ham, walnuts, radish, more duck and french beans. Rump of Hereford beef was a fine piece of meat, served with dripping toast too crisp for authenticity but perfect for the dish. Its a meaty menu (also featuring veal offal, sliced pigs head and too-bland milk-fed lamb); the fish we tried wasnt up to the standard of the beef, and no vegetarian main was offered. Still, an outstanding french toast with strawberry jam helped make amends. A very good restaurant, Magdalen is occasionally let down by inconsistency (a previous meal was worse; perhaps it depends which of the three chef-owners is helming), atmosphere (strangely subdued despite being nearly full on a Saturday night) and the wine list (everything we tried seemed quite heavy, including the supposedly lighter choices).

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008