Restaurants

Professional food, professional service: the Narrow is Gordon to a T (or G). Yes, it’s Gordon Ramsay Holding’s first foray into gastropubs, heralded as the death knell of the genre or a welcome leap in its evolution, depending on who the pub bore is. We like the Narrow. In a show of commitment to the boozer origins of this riverside site, more than half the ground-floor space is still dedicated to drinkers. Table tops are sleek and stools are shiny, but there are six real ales, benches outside with fine river views, and a bar menu that lists proper pub snacks such as scotch eggs. The dining room is a smaller, sky-lit space, decorated with boating ephemera. It’s the small number of dining tables, as much as the allure of brand Ramsay, that makes the Narrow so hard to get in to; even booking weeks ahead, we had to settle for a Monday lunchtime. Starters of gently spiced potted shrimp and pork pie were both classic dishes, reworked with first-rate ingredients. A main of pig’s cheek in meaty jus, served generously with mashed swede, was terrific value at £10. Battered haddock and chips featured a zingy tartare sauce, and, on a previous visit, baked egg custard with shortbread was faultless. The wine list is extensive too.

Time Out Eating & Drinking Guide 2008