Restaurants

By Kathryn Miller

This is the third venture from the Les Amis de Brula stable (the word Brula is an amalgamation of the first letters of the names of owners Lawrence Hartley and Bruce Duckett, formerly of The Ivy and Bibendum respectively). Visiting on a Friday night, we could tell this neighbourhood restaurant is already a success with the well-heeled, middle-aged locals. Staff greeted customers as if they were old friends.

Service was well meaning, but staff seemed inexperienced: an apparently new bartender started making a kir in a highball glass before another stepped in, and all orders had to be made through the manager. The food was variable. A starter of rustic fish soup (£7.50) tasted stocky and could have been thicker, but was passable. The generous portion of fois gras parfait (£9) worked well with its accompanying brioche and fig compote. Grilled mackerel (£11.50) tasted substantially chargrilled and came with puy lentils and a fresh salsa verde.

A Scottish fillet steak proved the evening's great disappointment. The cut seemed fine, but the meat was tepid and dry, with a sad absence of juices, as though it had been sitting in the kitchen for a while. It was sent back to be re-heated but it still didn't satisfy and my companion left it; the £19.25 cost was not included on the final bill. Desserts helped make amends. Elderflower sorbet (£6), served with a shot of chilled vodka, was intense but nonetheless refreshing.

Described as a 'traditional French bistrot', the decor surprises: patterned floor tiles look more Portuguese than French; full-length tinted mirrors would suit an Indian restaurant; the bar's decorated with Thai-style emblems. A shabby corridor leading to the lavatories didn't enhance first impressions.

La Saveur prides itself on its 'well-executed, classic French cuisine', but from our experiences, staff could do worse than pay more attention to the food than the customers.

Time Out London Issue 1924: July 4-10 2007