Restaurants

By Kathryn Miller

It's rare to stumble upon a restaurant that has good food, super-friendly staff and honest prices too, but Simplicity - a stone's throw from Rotherhithe's historic riverside pub the Mayflower and the excellent Brunel Engine House Museum - seems to have pulled it off. Arriving for a midweek supper on a stormy evening, we received an enthusiastic greeting from the two staff: chef and waitress. Light jazz was playing on the stereo, and vases of fresh flowers and candles on each table provided an individual touch to the smart, tasteful interior of this impressive local restaurant.

A starter of pumpkin and sweet potato soup was garnished with a spider's web of cream and tasted very fresh; mixed salad with carrot and pepper crudités and lardons was just as carefully presented and served with a subtle Stilton dressing. Roasted breast of chicken wrapped in Parma ham and stuffed with mozzarella was slightly dry but still tasted delicious, though its accompanying mashed potato seemed a little heavy for a summer menu. Baked pepper stuffed with ratatouille and lemon and coriander cous cous impressed my vegetarian companion. These dishes typify the Modern European slant of the concise menu, which changes from time to time.

Our bottle of French viognier was light and refreshing and, at £14, very good value for money. Leffe and Budvar are also on the drinks list, as are a Cava, a rosé and a dessert wine.

Around us, well-dressed locals were deep in conversation. Fans of Dickens might recall that it was Rotherhithe where Fagin met his maker. These days, the area attracts upwardly mobile professionals who commute across the river to Docklands. They will doubtless welcome the charming service and honest, unfussy cooking offered at Simplicity, an ideal spot to relax with friends after a long day in the office.

Time Out London Issue 1929: August 8-14 2007