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Balfour
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By Andrew Staffell
By all accounts, the redevelopment of the 1960s Brunswick Centre has been a famous success. In just a few years it's been transformed from a sad, vacant old shell into a cheery, modern retail centre that's once again the hub of local life.
But it could have been better. By leasing all of the units to major chains (the eating options include Strada, Yo! Sushi, Carluccio's and Starbucks), the developers have missed a trick. If, instead, they had given some units to smaller, artisan businesses, the Brunswick would have tons more intimacy and character.
Fortunately there's nothing to stop new, upscale independents from springing up in the neighbouring streets. Step forward Balfour, a smart new café-restaurant at the corner of Marchmont Street and Tavistock Place. Its gorgeous red-and-green tilework, large glass windows, cute wooden furniture and blackboard menus immediately stand out against the forgettable greasy spoons and curry houses that it neighbours.
Starters of bruschetta, calamari, and a main course of gnocchi with tomato and mozzarella were fine but nothing special, and nearby Strada already raises the bar for this kind of thing.
It's better to order from the chalked-up specials menu on the blackboard.
Whole fillet of sea bass was fresh and unadulterated and served with sweet new potatoes, but star of the show was a fat leg of confit duck, crispy on the outside, succulent and tender beneath the skin. It came with cubes of roast butternut squash and worked perfectly on a citrus-dressed rocket salad.
The posh bangers and mash also looked good.
Service was chirpy and efficient, and we had a decent bottle of Marqués de Reinosa Rioja from the short wine list. Balfour, we hope, is a sign of things to come in this little pocket of Bloomsbury. If it were confident enough to increase the number of delicious 'specials', it would shine even more.Time Out London Issue 1930: August 15-21 2007
Time Out reviews restaurants anonymously and pays for meals. Of course, we cannot guarantee the accuracy or independence of user reviews.
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Details
- 75-77 Marchmont St, Bloomsbury, WC1N 1AP
- Area: Bloomsbury
- Tel: 020 7713 6111
- Category: Modern European
- Travel: Russell Square tube
- Times: Open daily 12noon-11pm
- Price: Meal for two with wine and service: around £50
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Seemed to have very different experience from the other reviewers. Very erratic service, 3 staff on duty, only one of them actually was doing any work. Took 4 attempts to actually order anything and when it arrived the pastas are over-priced for the quality (£7-9, probably worth about £5). Raw ingredients not the best: Rocket & Parmesan - rocket over-powering, bland parmesan, no dressing to speak of. It’s a nice setting but have a drink & leave the food. £4.50 for the Prosecco. I would prefer to give my money to a small independent business but next time I’d go to Strada in the Brunswick Centre, it’s the same price for pasta and at least you’ll get some service. Shame, it could be a really nice place with some good management.
Absolute winner. The refined feel of the village that is Marchmont Street is reflected in the quality of the food, the ambiance of the location. An artisans yearnings are easily appeased in this delightful corner of history. Inner London needs to reveal more passion and ideas like what Balfour can deliver, at Balfour's reasonable cost.
We were at a bit of a loss as to where to go, as our usual italian ristorante had double booked us and so had decided to make our way towards the newly refurbished Brubswick Centre. Fortunately, we never reached this destination as we happened upon this charming new bistro.
My partner had the beautiful Osso Bucco with saffron risotto that was on the specials that week . Very reasonable at £12.95 and a big portion too.
I had a a most seafood pasta, which was both fresh and plentiful.
The staff were young and the service was lively.
A real treat and value for money in our opinions.
Tthere was nowhere to hang my coat so I had to put it on the back of my chair, maybe they could invest in some coat hooks ?
What a hidden gem, this place is.
I often come down to Bloomsbury, but must admit I 've never noticed it before. So perhaps it is new ?
The food was authentic and well cooked; markedly superior to the, 'Big Brand', type operations.
Feeling quite hungry, I had a seafood pasta, which was scrumptious. I followed with a medium rare steak. I was glad the kitchen actually took notice of my preference, so often the waiter will ask how I d like it and then I ll receive a well charred riposte from the kitchens. A very acceptable red from portugal, (I m not sure), helped things to reach their conclusion.
What most impressed me was the efficient, cheery service from all the staff and the surprisingly light impact on my pocket, when considering both the quantity and quality of the food.
Definitely, a place to visit again.
A dismal performance from the kitchen. Food was served cold, with sauces congealing on the plate and much of it tasted as if it had been cooked far earlier in the day. Our table of ten received food in batches of three. I was served a main course at 9pm, my friend received hers at 9.25. There was one waiter who seemed to be holding the whole show together, training the new waitress ('Amaretto? what is Amaretto?'), apologising to the customers ( 'it has been a bad day and a really bad evening, thank you and good night') and at one point the waiter went to the kitchen and cooked a dinner himself. Top marks to the head waiter - what will they do if he does the sensible thing and finds himself another job?